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Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate

Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate

SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate) is a commonly used anionic, sulfate-free surfactant, loved by syndet makers for it’s mildness and creamy lather.  However, due to its poor water solubility it is usually replaced with SLMI (Sodium Lauryl Methyl Isethionate) in liquid products. SCMI (Sodium Cocoyl Methyl 

Test your formulation knowledge

Test your formulation knowledge

As an educator I find giving students practical exercises a powerful, interactive and fun learning tool. Every couple of weeks on instagram we will post a formulation quiz where you can test your knowledge and contribute: https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/flawedformula/   Our fun formulation exercises are aimed at formulators (homecrafters 

Sulfate-Free Surfactants

Sulfate-Free Surfactants

I love this handy chart from Innospec’s presentation: “Formulating High Performance Sulfate-Free Cleansing Products”. ⁣⁣As you can see, surfactants have a working pH range. Some surfactants can hydrolyze at a low pH (SCI, Iselux, Sulfosuccinate). ⁣   As most surfactants are diluted, we have a 

Let’s Dupe: Eve Lom Intense Hydration Serum

Let’s Dupe: Eve Lom Intense Hydration Serum

Formulations don’t have to be complex. This one is super simple and a breeze to dupe. Cold process, no oil phase, and all ingredients are easy to get hold of (https://makingskincare.com/cosmetic-ingredient-suppliers/). Ingredient wise, the formula is inexpensive apart from the sodium hyaluronate, (high molecular weight: 

InstaMask™ – Customizable Instant DIY Clay Mask

InstaMask™ – Customizable Instant DIY Clay Mask

InstaMask™ from Vantage won the Silver award for best functional ingredient at In-Cosmetics Global in March last year.  These customizable, instant, encapsulated clay mask granules are easy to use.  Just add the water phase, mix and apply!  We received a sample from Vantage’s UK distributors, 

Adjusting Emulsion Viscosity

Adjusting Emulsion Viscosity

How to make your emulsion thicker or thinner. First analyze your formula to see what ingredients are contributing to viscosity. This is usually the emulsifier blend, gums/polymers and any fatty alcohols/acids (stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol) or waxes in your formula. If you wish 

TEGO® Care PS – Natural Emulsifier

TEGO® Care PS – Natural Emulsifier

TEGO® Care PS from Evonik (INCI: Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) is a popular DIY natural emulsifier in Europe, especially amongst German DIY formulators, where it is known by the name of “Emulsan”.   It is one of my favourite natural hot process emulsifiers and produces light, flow-able, 

Sapogel Q

Sapogel Q

I was first introduced to this new ingredient in March 2019 by its manufacturer, Alchemy Ingredients. Caroline from Alchemy hosted a special workshop for a small group of formulators which included myself, Jane Barber, Susan Barclay-Nichols (www.swiftcraftymonkey.blog), and Alchemy’s Australian distributors, Carst. The workshop proved 

Xanthan gum

Xanthan gum

0.2-0.3% xanthan gum is a common ingredient in my emulsions. I use this natural polymer mainly as a stabiliser. Xanthan, with it’s shear thinning, and high low-shear viscosity, is able to reduce the tendency of droplets to coalesce minimising the chances of emulsion separation.  I 

Fatty Alcohols: Cetyl Alcohol & Cetearyl Alcohol

Fatty Alcohols: Cetyl Alcohol & Cetearyl Alcohol

Want to make your emulsion thicker, more creamy and stable?  Just add 1-2% of either:  cetyl alcohol (cetanol (1-hexadecanol C16)); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol C18); or cetostearyl alcohol (blend of C16 and C18). I’m a huge fan of these common higher alcohols.  I use them in