Cold process emulsifiers are becoming popular as manufacturers search for ways of reducing costs and greener production methods. The conventional way of forming a emulsion is to heat the two phases separately then bring them together with mixing. It takes a lot of time and energy to heat the ingredients to 70°C and hold them there for 20 minutes.
Following my previous post on the cold emulsifier, Sucragel -http://makingskincare.com/2013/11/20/quick-no-heat-lotion/ I decided, to try another cold emulsifier, Durosoft from Stephenson Personal Care which is a range of polyglycerol esters produced from vegetable oils and glycerin – http://www.stephensonpersonalcare.com/products/durosoft/. The Durosoft range can serve as emulsifiers (o/w, w/o and co-emulsifiers) and solubilizer. They are both water and oil soluble and cold processable and PEG free.
The chemist at Stephenson, kindly sent me a sample of one of the range – Durosoft PK (INCI: Elaeis Guineensis (Palm Kernel) Oil Polyglycerol-4 Esters) and provided formulation tips. (If you would like to try the emulsifier, the sales contact is email@example.com).
The formula below produces a gel-type lotion / moisturiser (due to the sodium polyacrylate) which spreads well and sinks in easily. I found Durosoft easy to work with, particularly compared to Sucragel.
I would not advise using silicone with Durosoft, however, it is fine with electrolytes. The sodium polyacrylate I have included in the formula however, is sensitive to electrolytes – so I haven’t included my usual sodium lactate and aloe vera.
As we are not heating and holding our emulsion, don’t forget to pre-boil the water beforehand (to kill some of the non-endospore-forming bacteria) and let it cool. The preservative should be used at the supplier’s recommended level (0.5% in the case of liquid germall plus) and, as always, do test preservative efficacy with new formulations.
FORMULA – use this recipe calculator to convert the % below into grams - http://makingskincare.com/recipe-calculator/
PHASE A– water soluble ingredients
75.8% deionized/distilled/purified water (pre-boiled and cooled).
0.5% liquid germall plus (for alternative preservatives see - http://makingskincare.com/preservatives/)
1.5% Durosoft PK
PHASE B – oil soluble ingredients (the gum+sodium polyacrylate are water soluble but putting them here helps wetting and reduces clumping)
0.3% xanthan gum
15% vegetable oils
1.5% Durosoft PK
0.4% sodium polyacrylate (to thicken) – you can delete this for a slightly thinner lotion
1% vitamin E
1% fragrance/essential oil
- Pre-boil the deionized/distilled/purified water and allow to cool (this is to kill some of the non-endospore-forming bacteria).
- Put Phase A (water phase) contents into a container, mix until homogeneous.
- Put Phase B ingredients into a separate container, mix and then add to the Phase A (water phase).
- Stick blend until homogeneous.
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