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makingskincare

SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate) is a commonly used SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate) is a commonly used anionic, sulfate-free surfactant, loved by syndet makers for it's mildness and creamy lather.  However, due to its poor water solubility it is usually replaced with SLMI (Sodium Lauryl Methyl Isethionate)  in liquid products. SCMI (Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate) is similar to SLMI.  In this video we are making a sulfate-free shampoo with @innospec's SCMI and CAPB as the surfactants.  1.4% sodium chloride was included to thicken.  As with SLMI, adding a chelator helps clarity.  The video (except the last static shot), was filmed in July 2019 and at that point no DIY suppliers were selling SCMI.  @WindyPointSoap in Canada have now brought it in.    Give it a try and let us have your thoughts!
#isethionate #scmi #sulfatefree #surfactant #scmi #slmi #windypointsoap #innospec
As an educator I find giving students practical ex As an educator I find giving students practical exercises like the one above, a powerful, interactive and fun learning tool.  This one is aimed at intermediate level formulators (homecrafters and chemists alike). Go on, have a go and comment below with your thoughts on what the errors are and how to fix them. ⁣
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#cosmeticformulator #cosmeticchemist #cosmeticscientist #makingskincare #flawedformula
I love this handy chart from Innospec's presentati I love this handy chart from Innospec's presentation: "Formulating High Performance Sulfate-Free Cleansing Products". ⁣
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As you can see, surfactants have a working pH range.  Some surfactants can hydrolyze at a low pH (SCI, Iselux, Sulfosuccinate). ⁣
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Which sulfate-free surfactants do you like to formulate with?⁣
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#cosmeticformulator #cosmeticchemist #cosmeticscientist #makingskincare #sulfatefree #sulfatefreesurfactants #surfactants #innospec #innospecinc
Formulations don't have to be complex. This one is Formulations don't have to be complex. This one is super simple and a breeze to dupe.  Cold process, no oil phase, and all ingredients are easy to get hold of (click link in bio to access our list of DIY suppliers). Ingredient wise, the formula is inexpensive apart from the sodium hyaluronate, (high molecular weight: 1-1.5 million daltons), which retails around US$2-5 for 1g.  The preservative, Euxyl® PE 9010, is a blend of 90% phenoxyethanol and 10% ethylhexylglycerin.⁣
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#cosmeticformulator #cosmeticchemist #cosmeticscientist #diyskincare #makingskincare #diylotion #handmadelotion #reverseengineering #cosmeticdupe #evelomserum #evelom
InstaMask™ from Vantage won the Silver award for InstaMask™ from Vantage won the Silver award for best functional ingredient at In-Cosmetics Global in March last year.  These customizable, instant, encapsulated clay mask granules are easy to use.  Just add the water phase, mix and apply!  We received a sample from Vantage's UK distributors, Adina and formulated with it back in April 2019 (short video above, full video: www.makingskincare.com/instamask/). ⁣
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InstaMask™, (INCI Name: Kaolin (and) Aluminum Silicate (and) Mannitol (and) Cellulose (and) PVP (and) Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (and) Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (and) Ascorbic Acid), comprises mainly clay with some gelling and suspending agents. The granules do not include preservative as they are sold dry and are meant to be used for one application.⁣
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How to use (one-time use only):⁣
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📌Weigh one part InstaMask™ and add to that an equal part water (which can be personalised to include water soluble ingredients such as l'ascorbic acid).⁣
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📌Wait two minutes for the granules to hydrate, then mix well and apply.⁣
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📌Allow the mask to dry for 10-20 minutes and rinse.⁣
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#diybeauty #cosmeticscience #lotionmaking #makingcosmetics #cosmeticchemistry #cosmeticformulator #cosmeticchemist #cosmeticscientist #cosmeticlab #diyskincare #makingskincare #skincareformulator #handmadeskincare #skincarelab #naturalbeauty #organicbeauty #handmadecosmetics #formulationchemist #instamask #diyclaymask #diymask #adina_ingredients #vantage #instamasktm⁣
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How to make your emulsion thicker or thinner. ⁣ How to make your emulsion thicker or thinner. ⁣
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First analyze your formula to see what ingredients are contributing to viscosity.  This is usually the emulsifier blend, gums/polymers and any fatty alcohols/acids (stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol) or waxes in your formula. ⁣
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If you wish to make your emulsion thinner, all these ingredients listed above also provide stability so do be careful not to reduce the concentrations by too much if you are to avoid emulsion destabilisation.  The following web page provides the information you need to calculate the minimum amounts of emulsifiers and stabilisers you need: https://makingskincare.com/emulsions-stability/ ⁣
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To reduce viscosity, you can also swap out your emulsifier blend for one which is thinner, such as TEGO® Care PBS6 or the pair up these single emulsifiers: TEGO® Care CG 90 with TEGO® Care PS.⁣
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Note: If your emulsion turns out much thinner than expected, bear in mind some ingredients can thin emulsions, such as urea or caprylyl glycol so you may wish to reduce the concentrations of those ingredients or add more thickener to compensate. ⁣
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If you would like to make your product thicker and have only just made your emulsion, wait a couple of days before assessing the viscosity.  If your emulsion is still thinner than you would like, adjust your next formula to increase the level of fatty alcohols/acid by 0.5-2%. This will also make your product slightly more heavy, draggy and creamy.  If you wish to avoid this you add a water phase gelling agent, such as 0.5%-1.5% sclerotium gum or siligel™ instead. ⁣
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#cosmeticscience #lotionmaking #makingcosmetics #cosmeticchemistry #cosmeticformulator #cosmeticchemist #cosmeticscientist #diyskincare #makingskincare #skincareformulator #handmadeskincare #skincarelab #naturalbeauty #organicbeauty #formulationchemist #emulsionviscosity  #evonik #tegocarepbs6 #tegocareps #tegocarecg90 #emulsan #cetearylglucoside #siligel #sclerotiumgum #siligel #fattyalcohol #cetyalcohol #cetearylaclohol #stearicacid
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